Genius in Simplicity: Concombres au Beurre

“You don’t have to cook fancy or complicated masterpieces – just good food from fresh ingredients.” — Julia Child

If you’ve been reading LFM at all during the past week, then you know that Julia Child and I have been doing a bit of hanging out. She has been suffering through my ramblings, walked me through making some Potage Parmentier and Mousseline au Chocolat for dinner, and even helped me throw one whopper of a dinner party. But oh, the abuse isn’t over just yet. I figure she must enjoy my company, because she hasn’t walked out on me yet. For this week’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking challenge, I pulled out a recipe that I’ve been very curious to try–Concombres au Beurre (Baked Cucumbers, p.499).
The idea of baking cucumbers was one that had never occurred to me. I had always thought of the cucumber as a vegetable that you ate raw or pickled. But here Julia was telling me to bake them? The method used in the recipe (a brief salt/vinegar bath) helps draw out the natural moisture content of the cucumbers (so they don’t turn mushy during the baking process) in a way that doesn’t extract flavor in the process. Then the cucumber pieces are tossed in melted butter and herbs and baked for an hour.

The cucumbers come out of the oven looking relatively unchanged from when they went in.

Before

After

They are much more fragrant, the scent of cucumber, butter, and herbs intensified by the heat. I grabbed a fork, pierced a piece with its tines and popped it into my mouth. I was shocked. The flavors were fresh and light, yet rich and flavorful all at the same time. The cucumber flavor was definitely present, but melded perfectly with the butter and herbs. Why hadn’t I ever thought to bake a cucumber? Such a simple idea with such wonderful results. I guess that’s why she’s Julia Child and I’m not.


Concombres au Beurre (Baked Cucumbers)
Adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking
Makes 3 servings

3 cucumbers, peeled (approximately 8 inches long)
1 Tbsp. wine vinegar
3/4 tsp. salt
Pinch of sugar

1 1/2 Tbsp. melted butter
1/2 tsp. minced basil
2 Tbsp. minced chives
Pinch of black pepper

1. Cut the peeled cucumbers in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a spoon.
2. Cut into lengthwise strips about 3/8-inch wide and 2-inches long.
3. Toss the cucumbers in a bowl with the vinegar, salt, and sugar. Let stand for at least 30 minutes or for several hours. Drain. Pat dry in a towel.
4. Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.
5. Toss the cucumbers in the baking dish with the butter, herbs, chives, and pepper. Set uncovered in middle level of preheated oven for about 1 hour, tossing 2 or 3 times (about every 20 minutes), until cucumbers are tender but still have a suggestion of crispness and texture. They will barely color during the cooking.